Dispatch Greensboro: What to do in this vibrant southern college town

Greetings from Canada, where Barb is cruising through the St. Lawrence River and the Great Lakes during prime leaf-peeping season.

Jeri, meantime, is sailing one of her favorite small ships to Mexico and Costa Rica. But we don’t want to overload you. So we’ll save that for later. Just make sure you’re subscribed to get all of our future updates!

Fall is Barb’s favorite season, so she’s enjoying her cruise on board American Queen Voyage’s Ocean Navigator as the greenery up north turns brilliant shades of red and gold, and the temperatures dip as low as the 40s. She finds stepping out of the cabin in the morning with a sweater completely refreshing after spending time in Greensboro, N.C., (see below) and Las Vegas (more on that next week). And the blue skies here are endless.

Speaking of blue skies, travel seems to be smoothing out this fall.

Both of us have had fairly easy, mostly on-time flights and short security lines in the last few weeks. But Jeri did have an unusual delay on her way to a wedding in Philadelphia last weekend. And while it had nothing to do with airline or airport staffing issues, it did indicate that airlines – or at least Delta – are taking seriously the pressure from the Department of Transportation to improve transparency and customer service.

More on that below. First, here are some of the headlines that caught our attention this week:

– Haunted planes? At first we thought this might be fake news. But apparently it’s real. And just in time for Halloween! The Washington Post reports that passengers on several American Airlines flights in recent months have reported strange noises, including ghoulish moans, over the intercom system. Among the theories: hacking. But American says its systems are hardwired. We’ll be watching for updates on this for sure!

– Mexico considers launching an airline: You know the old joke about how to make a million in the airline business? Start with a billion. But that’s not deterring the strongman president of Mexico, President Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador, who said on Tuesday that the government is considering launching an airline to serve commercial destinations that aren't well-served by existing carriers. It would be run by the military, which – as Bloomberg reports – has already taken over some airports and a train project.

– Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts joins small ship cruise explosion. In what is probably a more profitable move than an airline (although it does have it own jumbo jet!), Four Seasons Hotels is getting into the yacht business. Earlier this year, Abercrombie & Kent, which has long offered itineraries on other company’s small ships, upped its game in the cruise space with the purchase of Crystal Cruises two (smallish) luxury ocean liners. And after many delays -- some pandemic-related, some not -- Marriott International’s Ritz-Carlton brand is set to debut its yacht collection this month.

Delta proves there's no such thing as TMI

By Jeri Clausing

One of the things I love best about Albuquerque is the airport, or the Sunport as we locals call it.

Yes, if you’re traveling beyond bordering states or a major hub, it usually means an extra stop. But it’s easy to breeze through security – with or without any special status – and things generally run on time.

But like most things in the New Mexico, when there are issues, they tend to have an unusual twist. A few months back, my 6 a.m. flight to Los Angeles was delayed when an unannounced military operation (the Sunport shares runways with Kirtland Air Force Base) jammed GPS systems. Last week, I experienced another first in decades of global air travel: my flight being delayed because a passenger on the inbound leg had used up an unusual amount of emergency oxygen.

Even more unusual was the quick, very thorough response, which to us indicates airlines are taking seriously the government’s call for more transparency and better customer service. It also underscores just how far good communication goes in diffusing tension and anger among affected passengers.

As I was waiting to board a flight to Atlanta last Thursday, the pilot himself came off the plane to the boarding area to explain the situation. He told us a passenger on the inbound flight had gone through three canisters of oxygen – an unusual amount for in-air emergencies , he said, leaving them short of the standard six canisters needed to meet FAA regulations for the number of passengers about to board. He went into great detail about the situation, even noting that the passenger should not have been flying.

At first it seemed like TMI, (the health care privacy law known as HIPPA immediately came to mind) but the complete lack of frustration among the passengers waiting to board – and the long line of passengers queuing up to try to take advantage of his generous offer of $1,000 to 20 passengers willing to take a later flight, made it clear just how far good communication can go.

The pilot apologized, acknowledged that too many people were left behind this summer and assured everyone that the crew was doing it best to get people to their destination.

After a few recalculations we took off an hour late – minus 22 passengers.

Upon landing the crew went down the list of tight connections, telling people just how much time they had from that moment, and advising when it would be impossible (or possible) for them to make it. They also made it clear that anyone who might get stuck in Atlanta would be put up in a hotel and rerouted as soon as possible.

Then, in a show of patience and kindness I haven’t seen in the “friendly” skies for years, much of the plane actually followed the pilot’s request that passengers with extra time stay seated if possible to enable those with tight connections to get off first.

TE's takeaway question: Can air travel be saved?

Digital nomad: What to do with two weeks in Greensboro

By Barbara DeLollis

GREENSBORO, N.C. – When I pointed my car south last month, I wasn’t sure what to expect. But my week-long escape to vibrant Greensboro lapsed into two, once I gradually got to know this small Southern city of about 300,000 people.

A former mill town known for making denim, Greensboro’s not exactly a tourist destination – especially when compared to Asheville two and a half hours away. It’s more like a big college town, with six universities including the University of North Carolina at Greensboro and the prominent HBCU, North Carolina A&T State University. The large student population fuels the city’s culture, keeping it young and fun.

Admittedly, I lucked out when my artist friends took me on my first day to the city’s North Carolina Folk Festival, which happens each September and is a great excuse to visit.

Despite the rain, we saw outstanding musical performances on five tented stages spread throughout the small downtown area, stopping to nosh at food trucks and local brewery tents dotting the streets. And since organizers take a diverse approach to folk music, I was thrilled to hear a variety of genres represented on stage, from funk (George Clinton) to gospel to bluegrass and all forms of country.

For instance, we enjoyed a performance by Black Opry, a touring group of individual Black singer songwriters established last year to raise awareness for Black musicians in country music. One artist sang riveting protest songs rooted in the South’s racist history, while another sang pop-country tunes. My favorite act was folk-based singer-songwriter Autumn Nicholas, who performed both with the revue and solo -- and I hope goes on to become a well-known artist. Based on the 10 to 15 high school girls who lined up at the stage to request her autograph, I’m guessing she has a new fan base in Greensboro! Tip: If you go to the festival next year, be sure to book your hotel in advance; the Hyatt Place is the newest hotel located in the downtown area. And download the festival app so you can track the acts you want to see.

When it came to food, I couldn’t have been happier. Often, we’d skip the supermarkets and shop at one of the city’s busy farmers markets for the freshest vegetables, fruits and flowers, and make wildly colorful and delicious meals. I was surprised by the good dining options, too. A few standouts:

– I had to try a classic Southern biscuit, so we went to Sage Mule, a cute breakfast eatery with cheeky, artsy decor, vegan options and a Southern twist. Local friends swear by the biscuits from the ubiquitous fast-food chain, Biscuitville, too!

– On a lazy Sunday, when we just wanted to relax, we went to Vida Pour Tea and ordered some exquisite teas and tasty pastries. Located in an unassuming storefront, the business features a living room in the back where you can sit down and play games or read.

– One night we tried Lewis and Elm, a street-front wine bar on the main drag (Elm Street) started by a sommelier and staffed by sommeliers. Our waiter-sommelier expertly guided us through the extensive wine list and helped us select a lovely Cotes du Rhone that was a great value for $35 to accompany our charcuterie and olives.

By far, though, my most memorable meal was at the fine dining restaurant Machete, the James Beard Award semi-finalist (located next door to Sage Mule), that offers a seasonal menu and both indoor and outdoor dining. It was so good, we ate there twice in one week to try both the covered patio and – since it was still hot – the air-conditioned room. I’m looking forward to exploring new menu and cocktail options the next time I go. Tip: I recommend you make reservations at least a few days in advance.

“Asheville and Durham put North Carolina on the national food map. Greensboro is the next place to watch in this state,” photographer and artist Dhanraj Emanuel, whose name-sake photography studio in Greensboro specializes in food photography, told me.

Greensboro’s flourishing craft brew scene

There are also breweries for every mood, including a biker-style brewery on a main thoroughfare and another that made me feel like I was in a cool, beer-making friend’s backyard. Most have walk-up, seat-yourself service and live music.

– Southend Brewery - This is one of the bigger breweries located off the city's historic, restaurant-filled Elm Street, near the railroad tracks, with a large outdoor area where bands perform. Expect to see locals dancing on a good night.

– Oden Brewing Co. - Located in three older homes on a busy street, this one has a counterintuitive chill vibe given its industrial area location. I parked in the gravel lot, then walked into a charming backyard featuring rocking chairs on porches, picnic tables on the lawn and a modest stage where a singer-songwriter was performing.

– Other breweries include Pig Pounder, which has more of a biker vibe, and Joymongers in downtown, where we stopped for a beer in between performances during the folk festival.

Greensboro's role in Black history

Visiting the South wouldn’t be complete without exploring Black history, and Greensboro has important roles in the Civil Rights movement.

The city’s Historic Magnolia House, for instance, re-opened last December as a bed-and-breakfast hotel after a roughly 50-year gap. It used to be one of the hotels featured in the Green Book, the travel guide published between 1936 and 1967 to identify accommodations in the South that would accept Black travelers when racist Jim Crow laws legalized racial segregation. Guests included James Brown, Ray Charles, Tina Turner and Jackie Robinson.

From Magnolia House, we drove just three minutes to the International Civil Rights Museum, which is housed in the infamous Woolworth where in 1960 four Black college students from A&T staged a sit-in at the store's segregated lunch counter to protest segregation. This museum tells this story, and how their courage sparked mass sit-ins and demonstrations – and ultimately change – across the South.

Arts flourish in Greensboro

I also discovered that Greensboro has a deep commitment to the arts that extends beyond music. The city's filled with public art, museums and funky galleries, too. My two favorites are on both ends of the spectrum:

– The Elsewhere museum - Located on Elm Street, this quirky gallery-museum began as the founder's grandmother’s thrift store. It’s since been transformed into an art institution with a sought-after residency program for artists who come from across the U.S. to live there and create art out of the items in the thrift store. And no, you can't buy anything.

– The Weatherspoon Art Museum - At the University of North Carolina at Greensboro, I found everything from an Andy Warhol print to exciting works I did not know in the exhibition “Gilded: Contemporary Artists Explore Value and Worth,” which lasts until April 8. Highly recommend making a stop here!

Missed past editions of Travel Essential? Some favorites ...

• ALBUQUERQUE -- Time your trip to see 600 balloons hovering in the sky

• ALASKA -- What's it like seeing icebergs up close from a small expedition ship?

• NORWAY -- The best lodging has a view of a fjord, right in your backyard

• CARIBBEAN -- See why this little-known, less-crowded island is our new favorite

• EUROPEAN RIVER CRUISE -- Read about our experience on the Rhine River

• BIKER CHICK CHIC -- What's it like learning how to ride a real Harley-Davidson in LA?